Parts List

Below is the Stubby parts list. I sourced all of my components (including both electronics and frame, but not including tools) for less than $150.

That there are different versions of the board, each with their own pros and cons. You only need to pick one board to use. For all these components, the Digikey part numbers are in brackets where available.

(Note: Stubby is under active development. It is recommended to see the Git repository for the current design; anything on this web page may be out of date.)

Electronics (Revision 2.1 boards: reflow soldering required)

(Revision 2.1 parts subject to change, please verify against current schematic)

• 1x ATMega 1284 Microcontroller (TQFP-44 package) (ATMEGA1284-AU-ND)
• 1x Rev 2.0 / 2.1 Control PCB
• 18x 9g Micro Servos (from Hobby King, $1.99 USD each when I bought them. Other similarly spec'ed servos should also work; ensure the dimensions are identical.)
• 1x HC-05 Bluetooth module (Alternatively, you could use a different radio such as an XBee, or run wired with FTDI cable, etc)
• Some sort of remote control (Computer over Processing API, Universal Controller, etc)
• 1x NCP1402 5v / 200mA Boost Regulator (SOT23-5 package) (NCP1402SN50T1GOSTR-ND)
• 2x MCP1702 3v3 LDO Regulator (SOT23-A package) (MCP1702T-3302E/CBCT-ND)
• 1x 3v3 Zener Diode (SOT23-A package) (BZX84C3V3-FDICT-ND)
• 1x 20MHz Crystal (SMD package) (CTX1164CT-ND)
• 1x RGB Status LED (4-PLCC package) (CLVBA-FKA-CAEDH8BBB7A363CT-ND)
• 1x White LED (0603 package) (475-2832-1-ND)
• 1x DPDT Switch (Power Switch) (360-2804-ND)
• 1x 4AA Battery Holder (BC4AAW-ND)
• 8x 1k Resistors (0603 package) (311-1.0KGRCT-ND)
• 2x 100k Resistors (0603 package) (311-100KGRCT-ND)
• 1x 22uH Inductor (1007 package) (587-2439-1-ND)
• 1x Schottky Diode (PowerDI 123 package) (DFLS130LDICT-ND)
• 2x 20pF Ceramic Capacitor (0603 package) (1276-1187-1-ND)
• 7x 1uF Ceramic Capacitor (0603 package) (587-1242-1-ND)
• 1x 10uF Ceramic Capacitor (0805 package) (1276-3012-1-ND)
• 2x 47uF Tantalum Capacitor (1206 package) (ATCC-211A-006-476M-TCT-ND)
• 1x 470uF Aluminum Capacitor (radial through hole) (399-6611-ND)
• 1x 2200uF Aluminum Capacitor (radial through hole) (UHM0J222MPD6-ND)
• 2x 6800uF Aluminum Capacitor (radial through hole) (P5119-ND)
• 100x Male Header Pins (Servo + Programming headers) (3x S1012E-36-ND should be fine, or any of a million other sources)
• 2x 6 pin female headers (732-2859-ND) (one for each of XBee and Bluetooth adaptor boards)
• 1x 10 pin 2mm female headers (S5751-10-ND) (only required if using the XBee breakout included with the control PCB)
• 1x 0.1" jumper (S9001-ND or the one you have salvaged from an old hard drive is perfect)
• Optional Sensors:
  • Magnetometer
    • 1x LadyAda's HMC5883L breakout board OR
    • 1x HMC5883L Magnetometer (16-LCC package) (342-1082-1-ND)
    • 1x 4.7uF Ceramic Capacitor (0603 package) (490-3297-1-ND) (Only needed if using 16-LCC magnetometer)
    • 1x 0.22uF Ceramic Capacitor (0603 package) (445-1318-1-ND) (Only needed if using 16-LCC magnetometer)
  • Distance Sensor
    • HC-SR04 Distance Sensor. (Only required if you want to use distance sensing in the Processing API). Available from all over the place, I got mine from eBay for under $2.

Electronics (Revision 2.0 boards: reflow soldering required)

(Revision 2.0 parts subject to change, please verify against current schematic)

(Digikey part numbers in brackets)

• 1x ATMega 1284 Microcontroller (44-TQFP package) (ATMEGA1284-AU-ND)
• 1x Rev 2.0 Control PCB
• 18x 9g Micro Servos (from Hobby King, $1.99 USD each when I bought them. Other similarly spec'ed servos should also work; ensure the dimensions are identical.)
• 1x HC-05 Bluetooth module (Alternatively, you could use a different radio such as an XBee, or run wired with FTDI cable, etc)
• Some sort of remote control (Computer over Processing API, Universal Controller, etc)
• 1x 3v3 LDO Regulator (MCP1702, Through Hole) (MCP1702-3302E/TO-ND)
• 1x NCP1402 5v / 200mA Boost Regulator (SOT23-5 package) (NCP1402SN50T1GOSTR-ND)
• 5x 1uF 0603 SMD Capacitor (587-1242-1-ND)
• 1x 47uF 1206 SMD Capacitor, Low ESR Tantalum (ATCC-211A-006-476M-TCT-ND)
• 1x 47uF 1206 SMD Capacitor (490-3907-1-ND)
• 4x 2200uF (or higher) Through Hole Capacitors (P5119-ND for a 6800uF one)
• 1x Schottkey Diode PowerDI 123 package (DFLS130LDICT-ND)
• 1x White LED 0603 SMD (475-2832-1-ND)
• 1x RGB LED 4-PLCC SMD (CLVBA-FKA-CAEDH8BBB7A363CT-ND)
• 1x 22uH 1007 SMD Inductor (587-2190-1-ND)
• 7x 1k 0603 SMD Resistors (311-1.0KARCT-ND)
• 2x 100k 0603 SMD Resistors (311-100KGRCT-ND)
• 2x 3v3 SOT23-3 SMD Zener Diode (BZX84C3V3-FDICT-ND)
• 1x 20 MHz Crystal, low profile (X439-ND)
• 2x 20pF 0603 SMD caps (1276-1187-1-ND)
• 1x DPDT Switch (Power / Programming) (360-2804-ND)
• 1x 4AA Battery Holder (BC4AAW-ND)
• 100x Male Header Pins (Servo + Programming headers) (3x S1012E-36-ND should be fine, or any of a million other sources)
• 2x 6 pin female headers (732-2859-ND) (one for each of XBee and Bluetooth adaptor boards)
• 1x 10 pin 2mm female headers (S5751-10-ND) (only required if using the XBee breakout included with the control PCB)
• 1x 0.1" jumper (S9001-ND or the one you have salvaged from an old hard drive is perfect)
• Optional Sensors:
  • Magnetometer
    • 1x LadyAda's HMC5883L breakout board
  • Distance Sensor
    • HC-SR04 Distance Sensor. (Only required if you want to use distance sensing in the Processing API). Available from all over the place, I got mine from eBay for about $3.

Electronics (Revision 1.0 / 1.1 boards: hand solderable with an iron)

• 1x ATMega 1284 Microcontroller (DIP package) (ATMEGA1284-PU-ND)
• 1x Rev 1.0 / 1.1 Control PCB
• 18x 9g Micro Servos (from Hobby King, $1.99 USD each when I bought them. Other similarly spec'ed servos should also work; ensure the dimensions are identical.)
• 1x XBee (Optional, an autonomous robot would not need this. Alternatively, you could use a different radio or connect to a computer, etc)
• Some sort of remote control (I am using my Universal Controller, but you really just need some way of talking to the robot)
• 1x 3v3 LDO Regulator (MCP1702, Through Hole) (MCP1702-3302E/TO-ND)
• 3x 1uF Capacitors (1276-1066-1-ND) - Used for power supply + AREF decoupling
• 10x 1k Resistors (311-1.0KARCT-ND)
• 1x 3v3 Zener Diode (BZX84C3V3LT1GOSCT-ND)
• 1x 12 MHz Crystal or Resonator (887-2011-ND)
• 2x 20pF caps (1276-1187-1-ND)
• 3x 2200uF Electrolytic caps (UHM0J222MPD6-ND) (You really only need one of these; put it between 3v3 and GND, to keep the AVR from browning out when all servos are drawing current. You can optionally put a couple on VBAT to GND to help stabilize the battery voltage too. Smaller caps, maybe 470uF, can work for the 3v3 ones. For VBAT, get as much capacity as possible.)
• 1x RGB Status LED (754-1492-ND)
• 1x Power LED (Any color; I used white. I had some on hand already but any 5mm LED will be fine.)
• 1x DPDT Switch (Power / Programming) (360-2804-ND)
• 1x 4AA Battery Holder (BC4AAW-ND)
• 60x Male Header Pins (Servo + Programming headers) (2x S1012E-36-ND should be fine, although I got mine from eBay)
• 1x 40 pin DIP socket (AE10008-ND or similar)
• 2x 10 pin female headers (or something to connect your chosen radio). I used something similar to Digikey part# 732-2859-ND, in conjunction with a Sparkfun XBee breakout board.

Frame

• 1/4" MDF (8.5x11" in size)
• 8x 70mm lengths of #6 threaded rod
• 12x 1 1/4" #6 screws
• 28x #6 Nuts
• 46x #6 Lock Nuts
• Piano Wire for Push Rods (2 meters should be more than enough; this can be purchased from Hobby King for a couple of dollars). I used 0.035" music wire, which I sourced locally.
• 36x small screws (mine came with the servos)

Tools

• Scroll Saw (or laser cutter, CNC, manual coping saw, whatever)
• Soldering Iron
• (Rev 2.0 / 2.1) Solder paste + something for reflow soldering (I used a heat gun, but toaster ovens, etc can work)
• ISP programmer of some sort (I have a USB Tiny ISP from LadyAda, but there are lots of different ones available now)
• Drill (or even better, a drill press, but I don't have one yet)
• 3/64", 7/64" and 9/64" Drill Bits
• Various Screwdrivers
• Slim Wrenches for #6 nuts (I just cut slots in some 1/8" steel I had)
• Calipers are helpful, but a ruler would suffice
• A Logic Analyser is very helpful for debugging, but not strictly required (but you will likely pull out your hair if you don't have one!)